La Torteria just moved from the depressing Regis Square strip mall just north of Interstate 70 on Federal Boulevard to a new home in Westminster (so recently that the list in this week’s print edition shows the old address). While the new location isn’t any easier to find, La Torteria still has a penchant for pork. In fact, the kitchen goes through so much, mostly in the making of slow-cooked carnitas, that it renders and sells the excess lard to customers. While the tiny dive’s name gives away its specialty, the tacos are every bit as good as the tortas, especially if you stick with the juicy, shredded shoulder that gains its toothsome qualities from cooking submerged in its own fat. Make a stop at the salsa bar to drizzle a blazing trail of chiles across your plate.